Riding the Waves a Quick How To

By Graham

1. Wax three quarters of the board starting at the tail. The more wax you add the easier it is to grip on with your feet.

2. When paddling out on your stomach, make sure you are centered on your board. Let your feet hang over the tail and do the crawl with your arms.

3. If a big wave breaks right before you, push down on the front of the board and dive under it.

4. When you see a good looking wave make sure it is not going to curve over and fall on you. Turn your board and start paddling about three seconds before the wave reaches you.

5. Have your arms under your chest in a push up position.

6. When the wave has caught you, push up with your hands and bring in your legs so you are standing. Make sure to have your knees bent, and ride it in.

7. If you fall off your board be sure you do not bump your head on the under side of it. Also, if your board is further out to sea than you are, pull in before a wave knocks it at you.